![]() However, below is what was gleaned from the launch, in order of the collections’ numeric categorization.Ġ Moncler Richard Quinn The sad truth is I never got to see this collection. Looking at the pictures that will go above this review, you’ll probably have a better view of some of the collections than this reviewer. It was, as they say here, a casino-but a fun one. That entailed sometimes interviewing designers without seeing the looks as they were still backstage, or sometimes seeing looks without interviewing designers. Most of the city had been invited to roll up at 8:00 p.m., but we nipped in 40 minutes early while the coast was relatively clear and tried to get the job done. There were 11 different collections presented side by side in various formats in a series of railway arches under the lines north of Milan’s central station. The idea is that at the end of a day on the slopes, you can continue-or at least descend safely-long after the sun dips over the mountain thanks to the light emitted by your ski-suit, which can both be seen by others and cast a light show your path.Covering this year’s round of the freshly expanded Moncler Genius project-from which the new collections will drop every month for the next 12-proved to be invigoratingly challenging. The second group of white garments was loosely entitled Snow Glow, and what we couldn’t see backstage was that they are made from photo-luminescent material. This super-fabric, more usually used in anti-stab garments, made for garments that will attract the risk-averse skier. ![]() The first was clad in Dyneema, a synthetic fiber purportedly 30 times lighter than regular nylon and 15 times denser than steel. Just as arresting was the functionality of the two all-white sections at the end. These garments, many of them based on pieces such as ski school instructor’s raincoats or downhill specialist’s salopettes, were also highly performative in their pulsating graffiti prints. The first section of this collection showed its performance credentials thanks to a cast of acrobats who ran (Spiderman-ishly) around the walls of the show space. The reason is that the line helmed by Sandro Mandrino fulfills the function that is the original basis of Moncler’s success: It is high-performance winter sportswear. This might not be the most hyped collection in the Genius stable, but make no mistake, Grenoble is indubitably the most important. If you are here, you are viewing the look book images for Genius Collection 3, Moncler Grenoble by Sandro Mandrino. It is a totally different way to work, but it brings us energy.” If you walk into the store today, it is totally different than two years ago-the crowd is having fun and enjoying the programs we have. I think the brand has changed thanks to the energy this project has given us. ![]() In total there were 12 collections on show in tonight’s third installment-is Genius going to keep on growing? Said Ruffini: “Maybe not in terms of designers, but in terms of energy, I want it to get bigger and bigger and bigger. During an intense boom-boom-boom of collection viewings almost as remorseless as the techno that DJ Pandora’s jukebox was playing outside, Will Smith rolled up (and shook my hand!) as we were talking to Moncler’s mastermind Remo Ruffini in a room designed to look like Kubrick’s 2001: A Space Odyssey and created to shoot the fabulous Richard Quinn collection (number 8). We were on the east side of Milan next to a radical squat in a sprawling, abandoned factory, within which Remo Ruffini and his cohorts had laid out separate stages for their eight (!) full Genius collections, plus three (!) accessory collections (a fat-tire Danish e-bike the super-cute, hot-model-thronged Poldo dogwear and Rimowa luggage), plus, oh yes, the genius but not “Genius” Rick Owens tour bus project on the side. “This is like Glastonbury, somehow,” observed Jonathan Anderson as we dashed from front stage to back at his show space in tonight’s Moncler Genius launch event. ![]()
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